Tips and Guides

by Rita T. dela Cruz

Everyone wants an easy life. In business, easy life means less work, without compensating profit. In the fish smoking business, it means less procedure but still yielding greater and quality output.

This is exactly the driving force behind the fabrication of a 4-in-1 portable smokehouse device, the latest in fish smoking technology developed by Zaldy A. Fernandez of the College of Industrial Technology, Mariano Marcos State University (MMSU) Laoag City campus. He previously fabricated a multi-purpose, portable smokehouse device (MPPSHD) in 2003, which also gathered interest among stakeholders in the fish smoking industry, both smallhold and big time.

The main features

As the name implies, the newly-developed device is a 4-in-1 smokehouse that carries on the four major processes in smoking fish: marinating, boiling, drying, and smoking. With this one machine, all these four processes can be done in one major sweep without the hassle of going from one machine to another.

The 4-in-one smokehouse is like an elongated box with an upright oven-like feature in the middle. It consists of three major features which are collapsible for mobility. These include: marinating chamber, boiling chamber, and the drying-smoking chamber. As a device, it has four main features: the boiler, trays and body, marinating chamber, and fuel chamber.

How does this 4-in-1 smokehouse processor differ from other conventional types of smoking devices like the Pangasinan stove, the pilon type, the drum type, the smoking pot, the batya for marinating, the boiler developed by the Department of Science and Technology (DOST), the pugon type, or the MPPSHD?

Simply, this new 4-in-1 portable smokehouse device carries all these features, from the old-fashioned batya type of marinating to the pugon type of smoking fish. The new device is a shortened version of all the former models.

Performance capability

The feasibility and portability features of this 4-in-1 smokehouse processor was determined following five efficiency measures: 1) cost of production, 2) fuel consumption, 3) rate of production, 4) quality of the product, and 5) convenience in operating the device.

The device was tested using two fish product samples: 30 and 9 kg of baraniti (Caesio caerulaurea) and bangus (Chanus chanus). For fuel, the following were used: combination of charcoal, sawdust, and guava leaves.

In terms of marinating, boiling, drying, and smoking, result of the test showed a performance average mean of 3.81 for the machine which according to the statistical treatment used, falls on a very satisfactory performance level.

The total expense incurred in the fabrication of this 4-in-1 portable smoke processor is P21, 027.60. Distribution of expenses included: materials (P15,526.00), electric power (P412.60), water (P82.00), labor, 30% of material cost (P4,657.00), and travel (P350.00).

The sensory and quality evaluation of the smoked baraniti and bangus was measured in terms of color, texture, aroma, and taste. For the smoked baraniti, the overall sensory evaluation showed a highly acceptable product. It was acceptable in terms of texture and taste and highly acceptable in terms of aroma and color.

Convenience in operating

Physically, the 4-in-1 smokehouse processor has more added features, it is bulkier than the MPPSHD but since its main feature is its collapsibility, it is portable and can be moved from one place to another. The device weighs about 70 kgs which can be easily handled by one to two persons.

Fuel can be easily loaded or unloaded because of the sliding fuel and ash basin which are included in its main features. Fuel can be easily ignited through disposable or recycled papers at a maximum of four minutes. When the fire starts, it requires lesser attention and management since it already has a built-in ventilation system duct. Moreover, the 4-in-1, as the evaluation showed, is economical in terms of fuel consumption.

For easy monitoring during the smoking process, the door of the drying-smoking chamber is made of transparent glass. Likewise, the device has a built-in temperature reading indicator and a controller. It has a throttle valve which is mechanically operated for heat operation and a built-in multi-purpose boiling chamber.

During the testing, two main problems were encountered: fuel continuity and smoke exhaust that inconvenienced the operator. However, these problems were easily solved. According to Mr. Fernandez, extra sets of bamboo trays used another form for the continuous and everyday operation of the smokehouse processor. Meanwhile, a collapsible smoke chimney was fabricated as an extension to the present chimney to serve as exhaust for the smoke coming out of the drying-smoking chamber. This was also used to reroute the exhaust of smoke.

When the inventor was asked the other great things about his invention, he said that aside from its complete features, this smokehouse processor is good for different production sizes: family-size, medium-size, and even for large-production size.

Source:

This article was based on the study, “Multi-Purpose Portable Smoke Bin for Smoking and Drying Fish and Other Products” by Zaldy A. Fernandez of the College of Industrial Technology-Mariano Marcos State University (MMSU), Laoag City 2900. This paper won the AFMA R&D Paper (technology generated category) during the recently held 18th BAR National Research Symposium.

For more information, please contact him at 0918- 4229357 or e-mail him at rddirectorate@mmsu.edu.ph

Orchids (Orchidaceae family) are the largest and most diverse of the flowering plant (Angiospermae) families, with over 800 described genera and 25,000 species. Some sources give 30,000 species, but the exact number is unknown since classification differs greatly in the academic world. Revisions of different genera occur on a monthly basis and this will increase with the growing use of genetic research and biochemistry. There are another 100,000+ hybrids and cultivars produced by horticulturists, created since the introduction of tropical species in the 19th century. The Kew World Checklist of Orchids includes about 24,000 accepted species. About 800 new species are added each year. Orchids, through their interactions with pollinators and their symbiosis with orchid mycorrhizal fungi, are considered by some, along with the grasses, to be examples of the most advanced (derived) floral evolution known.

All orchid species are protected for the purposes of international commerce under CITES as potentially threatened or endangered in their natural habitat, with most species listed under Appendix II. A number of species and genera are afforded protection under Appendix I, including all of Paphiopedilum and all of Phragmipedium. Many other species are protected by both international and national legislation, while hybrids are specifically exempted.

MORPHOLOGY

Growth Habit

Orchids are grouped according to two basic growth habits, namely: monopodials and sympodials.

Monopodials are orchids with one main stem with grow taller every year. The stem lengthens, adding new leaves to the top and aerial roots occasionally form along main stem. Flowers are always borne laterally (between leaves) and successively from older nodes towards young nodes. Monopodials include Phalaenopsis, Arachnis, Vanilla, Aerides, Vandopsis, Vanda, Phyncostylis, Ascocentrum and Trichoglottis.

Sympodials are orchids with creeping ground stem or rhizome which sends out shoot which eventually develops into stem and leaves. This new growth produces its own roots and leaves at maturity. Flowers are formed at the terminals or at the sides of the stem. After flowering, another shoot is formed at the base of the proceeding growth to repeat the cycle. The stem is sometimes thickened and fleshy, forming pseudobulbs. Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Coelogyne, Bulbophyllum, are examples of orchid general with sympodial growth habit.

Flower

Despite the complexity of the variety of orchid flowers, the structure is like any monocot flower. There are three similar sepals and petals but one of the petals is highly modified into an attractive structure known as labellum or lip. The lip attracts pollinators and serves as landing platform for pollinating insects. In the center of the flower is an organ called gynostagium, gynandium, or column. On the inner side of the column is the stigma, a shallow depression which produces a sticky solution where pollinia are deposited.

Orchid Plants

Unlike seeds of other flowering plants, orchid seeds are so minute consisting of an embryo with little or no stored food. Orchid seeds are produced literally by the thousands or even millions (Cattleya labiata) but only a few develop into mature plants.

Life of orchid seed is very critical during early stages of germination. Unless a symbiotic relationship with a beneficial fungus is established, orchid seed will die. The fungal aid or mycorrhiza is a mass of fungus hyphae, usually of species Rhizoctonia. During germination, mycorrhiza infects the basal end of the seed and releases an enzyme which converts starch, an energy of germination and enhances further its development. Orchids are limited to the environment with suitable fungus, where sugar and amino-nitrogen compounds are readily available for seed germination.

GENERA/SPECIES/HYBRIDS

The family Orchidacease consists of about 20,000 to 35,000 species distributed into 800 genera. This constitutes roughly 10% of all flowering plants in the plant kingdom. There are many hybrids and cultivated forms which continue to increase at an average rate of more than 1,000 per year.

Many endemic species are found in the Philippines, which have gained worldwide recognition by orchidists. There are about 130 genera and 941 species, of which 25 genera and 140 species based on consecutive estimates are of commercial value.

Dendrobium

The genus Dendrobium contains a very large number of heterogenous species. It has erect, cane-type pseudobulb and bears flowers with relatively long vase-like.

This group is naturally distributed in warm and humid areas, thus resulting hybrids require warm and humid environment with abundant sunlight for optimum growth and development.

In the Philippines, the Dendrobium group includes among others Den. Taurinum Lindl., Den. Stratioles Reichb. f., Den. Superbeins Reichb.f., Den. Phalaenopsis Fitsp., Den Biggibum Lindl.

Hybrids

In the Philippines, the following Dendrobium hybrids appear promising for cutflower production: Purple: Den. Tomie, Jacquelyn Concert, Den. Norman Jackson, Den. Vera Patterson x Den. Betty Hecht; Off-White- Den. Jacquelyn Thomas; Yellow: Den. May Neal Crosses, Mary Mac, Bethy Ho; White: Den Water Oumme, Den. Neo Hawaii, Den. Jack Hawaii, Den. Multico White, Den. Jacqueline Thomas x Den. Alice Spalding, Den. Singapore White.

Vanda

This group is generally sun-loving and robust with colorful, beautifully-shaped flowers, heavy substance and long-lasting.

Vandas are divided into three: 1) strap-leaf; 2) terete; 3) semi-terete.

Strap-leaf Vandas – These are epiphytes with flat, channeled leaves. These include V. Sanderana, V. Luzonica, V. Lamellata, V. Coerules, V. Limbata. Some strap-leaf hybrids for cutflower have performed and flowered well locally. These are: V. Rotchildiana, V. Veraruth, V. Lenavat, V. Laurel Yap and V. Onomea.

Terete Vanda – Mostly terrestial plants with cylindrical, pencil-like leaves. Most commercially important hybrid is V. Miss Joaquin.

Semi-terete Vanda – highly floriferous, making them desirable for cutflower. These are derived from crossing terete hybrid with strap leaf species/hybrid.
The following hybrids are found to flower well under local conditions: V. Josephine van Brero, V. Tanancy Yan, V.T.M.A., V. Patricia Low, V. Emma van Davente and V. Velthius crosses.

CATTLEYA AND ITS ALLIES

Modern Cattleyas consists of a complex group of hybrids created by combining cattleya species or hybridization with closely allied genera such as Laelia, Brassavola, Broughtonia. Known as “Cattleya Alliance”, these are natives in Brazil, Columbia, Central America and Mexico. Genus Cattleya is a very interesting diversified group of orchids with broad spectrum of colors and types.

Some of the more famous hybrids are:

Purple Cattleyas, like Lc. Bonanza, Blc. Norman’s Bay, Bc. Culminant;
White Cattleyas, like C. Bow Bells, C. Bob Betts, C. General Patton, and C. General Japhet;
Semi-Alba Cattleyas – also caled white with colored lip. Hybrids derived from C. Mossiae and C. Warscewiczis which are white with purple lips;
Yellow Cattleyas – Blc. Malworth, Blc. Jane Helton, Blc. Malvern and Lc. Lorraine Shirai; and
Red Cattleyas – Slc. Falcon “Alwanderi”, Slc. Jewel Box, Lc. Desert Orange and Lc. Rojo.

PHALAENOPSIS

The graceful bearing of the Phalaenopsis, whether native species or advanced hybrids is quite pleasing to the eye. The long, slender flower stalk bears the flower high and the arcs away from the leaves appearing fragile yet regal.

Some promising species are P. Amabilis, P. Stuartiana, P. Schilleriana, P. Equestris, P. Leuddemaniana and P. Sanderara.

The following hybrids are promising for cutflower production:

Large White – Phal Anne Cavaco, P. Grace Palm, P. Dos Pueblos and P. Quisumbing;
White with Red Lip – Phal. Eva Lou, P. Queen Emma and P. Ruby lips; and
White Stripes – Phal. Percy Porter

GROWTH REQUIREMENTS

Basically, the growth requirements of any plants are temperature, water, light, aeration and nutrition. These are the environmental factors which a good grower should try to stimulate for each type of orchids.

Temperature – cool-growing orchids prefer night temperature of 10oC to 18.3oC (150 oF-65 oF) and 15.6 oC to 21oC (60 oF-70 oF) day temperature, like Cymbidiums, Odontoglossums and some Phaphiopedilums.

For the intermediate group like Cattleyas, some Dendrobiums and Oncidiums, night temperature needed is 12.8 oC to 15 oC (55 oF-60 oF) and day temperature ranges from 18.3 oC to 21 oC (65 oF-75 oF).

Most orchids grown in the Philippines are warm-growing where night temperature is below 18.3oC and day temperature rising to 21oC to 32 oC. thse temperatures are ideal for growing Renanthera, Vandas, Phalaenopsis, Aerides, Trichoglottis and Dendrobiums.

Light – sun-loving orchids are Arachnis, Renanthera, Arandas, and terete and semi-terete Vandas.

Partial shade orchids need lower light intensity for healthy growth. Example: Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleyas, and strap leaf Vandas.

Orchid plants which receive enough light have short plump stems with yellowish-green leather leaves. Those receiving too much sunlight are yellowish, stunted and even scorched. Those under too much shade become green, soft and succulent with thin spindly stems.

Water – generally, orchids prefer an atmosphere where relative humidity ranges from 50% to 85%. A constantly saturated atmosphere (100% relative humidity) is just as harmful as constantly dry environment. High humidity and relatively low night temperature are conducive to the development of many diseases and pathogens especially soft rot. Growers often water the plants early in the morning so that before nightfall, the leaves are already dry. During sunny days, it may be necessary to increase humidity of the atmosphere by misting or wetting orchid house floor to enhance vaporization.

The need and frequency of watering depend on interacting factors, such as size of containers, potting media, temperature, light intensity and air movement. Orchids in large containers dry out more slowly than those in smaller pots. Plants in baskets, twigs and slabs require more water than those in pots. During drier months, more frequent watering is required. Plants suffering from lack of water become flaccid and stems and pseudobulbs become shrivelled.

Aeration – orchids must have free circulating air around them. Orchids are found where there is constant breeze. Stagnant air does not allow drying of potting medium and foliage.

Nutrition – apply fertilizer either through liquid or dry method. By liquid feeding, dissolve water soluble salts and apply resulting dilute solution to plant.

The amount and kind of fertilizer required by orchids depend upon growing conditions, potting media, species and stage of development.

Young seedlings are usually given dilute solution of nitrogenous fertilizers or complete fertilizers with higher nitrogen content plus phosphorous and potassium (4-1-1 or 2-1-1). Pig manures, chicken or fish emulsion may be prepared and applied once a week or once a month. As plant gets older, increase phosphorous and potassium level correspondingly.

Generally, under conditions of more frequent rainfall, practice more frequent fertilization as leaching is higher. When plants are dormant or inactive, do not fertilize plants. Plants exposed to higher light intensities also require higher fertilizer or nutrients than those grown under heavier shade.

Potting and Repotting – potting of orchids varies according to genera or species.

For Cattleyas, some growers use clay pots with charcoal as potting medium. Remember not to over pot them as medium remains wet for a long time in big pots. Place the bulb close to rim of pot with the lead towards center.

An old Cattleya needs repotting when the plant has overgrown its pot and when potting materials has deteriorated.

For Vandas and Ascocendas, small seedlings are potted with little osmunda fiber and a little charcoal. For older plants, coarse tree fern or charcoal maybe used for potting. Another method is by mounting them in twigs on driftwoods or by hanging them in wooden baskets.

For Dendrobium, pot them in clay pots or mount them on driftwoods. For large-scale production, clay pots with charcoal are ideal.

For Phalaenopsis, mount them in acacia or kakawati wood cuttings, or fern slabs. Or mount them in pots with charcoal and little osmunda fiber.

In potting, the general rule to remember is to allow quick and complete drainage of the potting medium.

Some types of orchids are planted directly in well-drained bed or in soil pots.

PROPAGATION

There are two groups of propagating orchids; asexual (vegetative propagation) and sexual (seed and embryo culture).

Asexual or Vegetative Propagation

Vegetative propagation can be done in any of the following methods:

Division – Cattleya, Dendrobium, Paphiopedilum and Cymbidium can be multiplied through division. Separate three to four canes or bulbs from mother plant to form new plants by cutting through rhizome and pot them individually.

Formulation of Keikis and offshots – occasionally, a bud will give rise to a young plant at the top, side of pseudobulbs, canes or at the nodes of flowering stem. The Hawaiians call these young plantlets from vegetative or flowering stem ‘keikis’. Filipinos call them ‘anak’. Once the young new roots develop, remove plantlets and pot separately.

Top cutting – monopodial orchids, such as Vandas, Ascocendas, Arachnis, Renanthera, Trichoglottis, and even Phalaenopsis and Doritis, are best propagated by top cutting. When plant becomes leggy, cut off top part, retain few roots and pot it separately. New roots develop readily by top cutting.

Tissue Culture – Tissue culture is one of the most rapid methods of multiplying vegetative plant. It develops new plants in an artificial medium under aseptic conditions from very small parts of plants, such as shoots tip, root tip, pollen grain. Thousands or even millions of identical plants can be produced from a small tissue in a relatively short time.

Sexual Propagation or Seed Embryo Culture

Orchid sexual propagation is done through seed embryo culture. Orchid seed is so minute, devoid of stored food for seed germination. However, during germination, fungi infect orchid seeds and help convert complex starch to simple sugars, which serve as energy source. That fungi and orchids have symbiotic relationship during germination.

Under artificial or laboratory conditions, a sterile artificial medium with sugar and other nutrients is required. Through research, an excellent medium for growing seeds without fungi was developed. Inside the bottle where orchid seedling is grown is a miniature glasshouse which protect seedlings from unfavorable environmental conditions. Using artificial media has insured the growing of nearly all orchid seeds into mature plants.

Flasking and reflasking or protocorms – when orchid seed or embryo is planted in a culture bottle, numerous seedlings germinate in a very limited space with little available food. The first sign of successful germination is when orchid seed starts to swell and turns green. As growth continues, the embryo becomes bigger and assumes a flattened top shape called protocorm. A small amount of seed sown produce hundreds of tiny photocorms growing in limited space. At this stage, transplant them into fresh medium and table for further development and rapid growth.

Composting and Repotting Seedlings – Orchid seedlings are ready to be transplanted from culture bottles when roots and leaves are fully developed. Dendrobiums may be potted after 4 to 6 months. Vandas, Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas in 6 to 8 months after reflasking before seedlings are ready for community pots. Seedlings should be potted only in sterile potting medium and pots to avoid damping-off.

Potting medium may consists of sterilized fine Osmunda fibers, charcoal, chopped tree fern (paslak).

After removing seedlings from bottles, wash out all agar from seedlings and wash them in fungicide suspension. Drain excess moisture and sort out seedlings according to size. Small seedlings are planted in community pots, while the bigger ones are potted individually in small pots.

FLOWERING

Like most plants, orchids must attain a certain degree of vegetative growth before they are capable of flowering. This is referred to as the stage of ripeness to flower.

For Phalaenopsis, the minimum number of leaves is 3 before they will flower, 8 in Vandas, and 14 in Aranda. Vegetative growth of seedlings can be accelerated to attain the stage of ripeness to flower. Optimum growing conditions such as high temperature, humidity, adequate and continuous light, frequent application of dilute fertlizer have shown hastening of flowering in Vanda and Phalaenopsis.

Factor affecting flower bud initiation

Photoperiodism – is the development of plants as conditioned by the length or duration of light. There are 3 orchid categories based on their response to photoperiod: 1) short-day; 2) day-neutral; and 3) long-day groups.
Temperature – for some orchids, low temperature is required to induce flowering. Temperature interacts with photoperiod as regards to flower induction. Some orchids required low temperature to induce flowering, as follows: Cymbidium, Cattleya Mossiae; Dendrobium, Phaphiopedium, Phalaenopsis, Schilleriana.

HARVESTING

Orchids flowers do not mature until 3 to 4 days after they open. It is important to know how old the blooms are before harvesting. Flowers cut before they mature will not hold up nor last as longer as the matured flowers. Spray-type orchid present no problem. Each floret opens 1 ½ to 2 days apart. If 3 or more flowers are open on the spike, the lower flower is mature and can be separated.

SOURCE: Department of Agriculture, Philippines, photo courtesy of www.theorchidman.com

I am posting this because a new GOLDILOCKS FRANCHISE was opened in the City where I am located, and the store have been packed on a daily basis for the past two months. I am guessing this Franchise is profitable, the start capital, however, is almost prohibitive to ordinary folks. Read below for more information.

Put up your own Goldilocks outlet! Goldilocks Bakeshop, Inc. provides almost everything you’ll need to successfully run your own Goldilocks shop. We’ll give you the name license and trademark, and we’ll show you how the Goldilocks business operates.

Your Goldilocks shop can either be a Bakeshop, selling only baked products, or a Full Store, serving both delicious baked goods and scrumptious Pinoy dishes. Bring the freshness and warmth of Goldilocks to your neighborhood with a Goldilocks franchise!

What is the Goldilocks Franchise Agreement?
The Franchise Agreement grants to the franchisee the right to operate a specific Goldilocks Store, at a single address, for a period of 8 years . These rights include the use of Goldilocks trade name and trademarks, proprietary products, store design, signage, and use of Goldilocks methods of operation.

In return the franchisee agrees to operate the business in accordance with the Goldilocks established standards of quality, service, cleanliness and customer service. The franchisee is expected to do his utmost best to operate his store to achieve the fullest potential of the store in terms of profitability and customer delight.

What does Goldilocks look for in a prospective franchisee?
Goldilocks looks for a franchisee applicant with the following characteristics: highly motivated and shares the same values as Goldilocks in terms of commitment to quality and service.
? dedicated to running the business on a full time basis, not as an investor but as a hands-on operator (owner / manager)
? financially capable of meeting the financial requirements.
? with an entrepreneurial drive willing to take calculated risks, and with the strong desire to succeed.
? with business management skills preferably with food or retail experience.
? very good interpersonal relationship skills.
? willing to operate within the Goldilocks system.

How much is the franchise fee?
The franchise fee, which is paid upon the signing of the franchise agreement, is for the rights to use the franchisor?s trademark and business system as well as for the activities at the start of the franchise agreement such as site evaluation , assistance in recruitment and training for the initial store team.

Franchise fee for the Bakeshop is P 800, 000.00 and for the Full Store P1.2 Million.

What is the investment cost for a Goldilocks franchise?
Investment costs will vary depending on the size of the store, the location, type of store and several other factors.

Investment cost for a Bakeshop is estimated at P 6 to 8 Million and for the Full Store at P 10 to 12 Million.

Investment cost will cover the following:

? franchise fee
? lease hold improvements
? delivery vehicle
? operating equipment ./ utensils
? collateral / surety bond
? project management fee
? store launching activities
? POS – Point of Sales System w/ hardware package

Does Goldilocks provide financing?
No, Goldilocks does not provide financing.

How long is the franchise term?
The franchise term is for eight ( 8 ) years.

How much is the royalty fee ?
The royalty fees are paid on a monthly basis for the on going use of the Goldilocks name and systems as well as for the continuing support activities of Goldilocks.
a) Full Bakeshop 4% of total monthly purchases.
b) Foodshop 8% of total monthly gross sales.

How much is the advertising fee ?
The advertising fee is 2% of the total Gross Sales, derived from both Bakeshop and Foodshop and is paid on a monthly basis.

Will training be provided ?
Goldilocks will provide training for one Managing Director, the management team and the crew who must all successfully complete the Store Operations Training Program.

The training for the initial batch of hires will be free of charge but all succeeding training for new employees will be charged.

Training excludes salaries, meal, transportation, lodging cost of the employees and out of pocket expenses of trainers for training activities conducted outside of Metro Manila.

The Franchisee’s Managing Director and store crew will also be required to attend trainings during the duration of the franchise term to upgrade their skills.

A Goldilocks Operations Manual will also be provided for reference purposes and will be updated as needed.

Will Goldilocks provide the manpower to operate the store?
Goldilocks will assist the franchise in the recruitment of its team free of charge for the initial store team but recruitment cost will be charged for succeeding hires.

The store personnel will be directly hired by the franchisee and will be responsible for their salaries and benefits.

Who looks for the location?
When you apply for a Goldilocks franchise, you may propose a site location, together with an initial market study of the proposed site which will include the foot and vehicular count, competitive business establishments, and demographics (area profile). Our site Selection Department will assess the site and validate the market study.

What are the required sizes of the store space?
a) for Bakeshop – Minimum of 60 – 80 Square Meters
b) for Full Store – Minimum of 150 – 250 Square Meters

Is there a standard store design?
Yes, there is a standard Goldilocks store design, lay-out, equipment and facilities requirements for each type of store.

What continuing support will I receive?
On going support includes regular in-store visits to help you identify areas of improvement, assistance in the development of marketing and customer relations programs and activities, new operating procedures, and much more.

What will my return in investment be?
Although the brand name of Goldilocks is a strong sales inducing factor, the amount of money a franchisee can expect to make will greatly depend on the ability of the franchisee to manage the business , drive sales volume and control operating costs.

Is there a territorial or area exclusivity?
Goldilocks does not grant territorial exclusivity. Stores may be situated depending on market and customer needs.

How can I apply for a franchise in the Philippines?

1)Download and print a copy of the following forms. Fill out completely.

Franchise Inquiry Form (Pages 1 to 13)

2) Prepare the following :

? Letter of intent with complete information containing exact address of proposed site, your mailing address, contact numbers.
? Vicinity map of proposed site with nearby establishments indicated.
? Legal document of site ownership ( if applicant owns it )
? Detailed resume or bio-data

3) Mail these documents to:

Goldilocks Bake Shop, Inc.
Franchise Relations Department
439 Shaw Blvd.
Mandaluyong City

Or email us at :
lin.deres@goldilocks.com.ph

I am interested in selling Goldilocks products or applying for a franchise in other countries . Where can I ask for more information?
For more information on foreign franchising please Click here.

The native honey bee or the Asian honey bee (Apis cerana) are good pollinators of crops. They also produce honey, pollen and wax, all of which could be either directly used by farmers or sold in the market.

Compared with the exotic European honey bee (Apis mellifers), our native honey bees are more resistant to pest and diseases Also, colonies of native bees are available everywhere and so it is easy to start with one or two colonies of this kind of bees. Being tropical, our native bees are smaller and could produce 2 to 6 kg of honey per year while the European bees could yield 50 kg of honey per year. Native honey bees also have greater tendency to abscond or leave suddenly, deserting their hive.

Since 1948, there have been attempts to rear the European honey bees due to several reasons; i.e. gentleness, high honey yield, lesser tendency to abscond, etc. But two major problems have limited the culture of this species. These are: (1) lack of queens and (2) susceptibility to mites.

Because of biological and economic considerations, native honey bees are more suitable to rear by small farmers. Less capital is needed in raising these honeybees. If farmers have enough resources and skills, they may try rearing the European honey bees.

Suitable areas for rearing native honey bees

Colonies of native bees could easily be established in areas where there are plenty of flowering plants throughout the year. Bees in these areas will practically yield more honey.

Having diversified farms, Cavite and Batangas provide good foraging grounds for bee colonies. In Quezon where coconut palms flower throughout the year, bee colonies under coconut plantations would just be alright. Mindanao is another good area to raise honey bees.

One practical method of assessing the suitability of an area for beekeeping is counting the number of wild bee colonies. If the density of bee colonies is high, it means that the area is suitable for bee culture.

Materials needed in transferring wild colonies of bees

1. Wooden hive
2. Frames with wires
3. Nylon plastic
4. Knife
5. Bee veil
6. Bee brush
7. Smoker
8. Ax
9. Bolo
10. Plastic sprayer
11. Queen cage
12. Bee escape

How to transfer honey bees:

Transferring wild colonies of bees to a wooden hive. Be sure that all materials are available.

Bolo or ax may be needed in exposing the colony of native honey bees. Determine the number of combs in the hive. Spray worker bees with small amount of water to prevent bees from flying. A little amount of smoke is needed to drive worker bees away from the first comb. By means of a sharp stainless knife, cut the base of the first comb. Oftentimes, this comb does not contain brood (immature bees) or honey. Using water and smoke, do the same to the other combs.

Fix the comb with capped brood (pupal stage) on the center of the wired frame. To do this, cut evenly the base of the comb. Place the comb below the wired frame and cut through the middle section of the comb by using the wire as guide. Now, could push half of the comb through the wires. Tie the comb to the top bar by means of a plastic straw. Bees will begin to cluster outside the combs because of the disturbance. Occasionally, examine this cluster to see if the queen is with them. One or two combs with capped brood is enough for the new hive depending on the total population of the feral or wild colony. Be sure that the comb attached to the frame would be totally covered by bees after the operation.

Now, look for the queen. Among the bees in the colony, she has the longest abdomen. If you find her, grasp her wings gently with you two fingers. Do not hold her on the abdomen. Put her on the cage together with five newly emerged worker bees. After covering the cage, tie it below the top bar adjacent to the comb. With the queen and two combs on the box, you are now ready to transfer all bees to the box. Give the queen a handful of bees. Some of these bees will guide the remaining bees to the new hive. Apply some smoke to the cluster of bees remaining in the old hive to facilitate the process of bee transfer. After all bees have transferred, bring the box to the desired location.

Transferring a swarm to the box

Bees on swarm are gentle because they have no honey and brood to protect. Wear a bee veil. One could not determine if bees are aggressive or not. Look for the queen and put her on a cage. Place the queen cage on the center of the box. Be sure that one or two frames have wax strip. You may release the queen after four days.

Swarm on leaves or small branches can be shaken into a box containing frames with wax strips.

Transferring honey bees from concrete walls

Some bee colonies may be found in structures which could, not be moved or destroyed for some reasons. In this situation, bees could be forced to transfer to a box by means of a bee escape.

Be sure that there is only one small hole in the feral colony. By means of a sealant, attach the bee escape to the wall to cover the entrance. Bees could get out but they could not get in. Place the box with frames near the entrance. One frame in the box should contain a piece of old comb to attract flying bees.

The queen may transfer to the new hive on or before the fifth day. She does not need to be confined in the cage.

Management of newly transferred colonies

1. Newly transferred colonies are always under stress because of disturbance. We could describe the colony condition as abnormal.

2. Place all boxes on wooden benches 18 inches or more from the ground. Shaded or partially shaded areas provide good location for bee colonies. Apply grease on the legs of benches to prevent ants from attacking or robbing bee colonies.

3. Immediately give sugar syrup (60:40 sugar-water ratio) to the colonies. This will enhance building of new combs.

4. Limit the entrance hole to prevent robbing or drifting of worker bees.

5. Release the queen after four days. By this time, new combs have already been built.

6. Examine all colonies for larvae of wax moth. This is the most common pest of brood. Newly attacked combs usually have small holes on their midrib. They may also contain tunnels of larvae. If any of these symptoms appear, remove all combs after putting the queen in a cage. Give the colony new frames with wax strips and continue feeding. Place the infested combs on a freezer to kill all eggs and larvae of the pest. After 72 hours, these combs could be given back to the bees.

7. Absconding (or desertion of the hive by bees) is usually caused by wax moth infestation of the brood. Absconding is a natural behavior of native honey bees. It is actually a defensive strategy of the bees. Be sure that swarm traps are always in their proper places. Once the colony becomes strong, they could guard the brood against wax moth.

8. At least three combs should have cells with sealed honey. The presence of sealed honey increases the morale of the colony.

Swarming

Swarming is normal among native honey bees. It is one way of increasing their colonies. Since you could not stop this annual activity of the bees, be sure that your swarm traps are hung on branches of nearby trees. Melted bees wax should be applied on these wooden traps to attract swarming bees.

Provide one or two combs of capped brood to the new hive. Shake the bees into the new hive. This could be done with a jerk to cause the bees to slide from the swarm trap.

Construction of bee hives

There are many kinds of bee hives. Traditional hives in the Philippines are usually made of hollow trunks of trees or palms. Ends of these hollow materials are usually plugged with stones or wood. The movable-frame hives are recommended for easier manipulation of combs. Oftentimes, combs have to be inspected to determine the condition of the hive.

Thickness of the wood or bamboo may vary but the internal dimensions must be followed strictly. The most important dimension is the distance between side bars or top bars since the bees always maintain a natural distance between combs. This is called bee space. Width of side bars should be 27 mm.
How to melt bees wax

Wax should be extracted from old and new combs. A cheap solar wax melter could be assembled for this.Wax strips instead of wax foundation.

A locally assembled wax container is submerged in hot (but not boiling) water. Dip a marine plywood twice on the metal containing the melted wax. Be sure to moisten the plywood with soap solution before dipping. Peel off the wax after five seconds. Cut wax sheets into strips for future use. Place the wax strip on the center of the top bar. Use melted wax to glue the wax strip on the bar. Embed wires with melted wax. Bees will position the midrib of their combs on wax-coated wires.

Do’s and dont’s when examining a hive

Always use a hand sprayer to calm the bees. Never use smoke as advised in temperate countries. Use of smoke is appropriate in dealing with European honey bees.

Do not stand in front of the hive. You may be blocking the pathway of bees.

Always wear bee veil. Bees tend to sting near the eyes. If you are stung, apply weak acid after removing the sting from your skin.

Place uncapped brood near the center and capped brood towards the sides.

Cut old and brittle portions of the comb. Queens love to lay eggs on new combs.

Always examine for the presence of wax moth larvae, especially during the rainy season.

Remove combs not covered by bees. Store them in airtight containers containing moth balls.

Splitting the colony

Strong colonies will divide naturally through swarming. You may divide a strong colony by placing the queen and four or five frames of bees in another box. Shake some bees into the second box. Transfer the second box to another location; the farther, the better. Older bees will return to the first box.

Without a queen, bees in the first box will build several queen cells. On the ninth day, destroy small queen cells and leave the biggest one. A young mated queen may start laying eggs at three to four weeks after splitting the colony.

How to harvest honey

Use of honey extractor

This is an expensive device for beginners. But if your group could not put up one extractor, harvesting of honey would be more efficient. Honey extracted through this method is clean. Also, combs could be returned to the hives after processing.

Squeezing of honey combs

By means of a hot knife, cut honey combs into small pieces. Combs with brood are tied to the top bar and returned to the hive. Combs with honey are squeezed by means of a clean muslin cloth. A metal press could also be of help.

Cutting of honey combs

Combs of honey could be cut nicely and wrapped in clean plastic bags. Comb honey could also be stored in dean bottles.

Presentation of your product.Be sure to invest on good labels and clean bottles.

Source: photo from bugs.bio.usyd.edu.au; International Institute of Rural Reconstruction (IIRR) Silang 4118, Cavite, Philippines; Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) Visayas Ave., Diliman Quezon City, Philippines; Ford Foundation (FF) 6th Floor, Doarcisa Bldg. Paseo de Roxas, Makati Metro Manila, Philippines; ISBN: 0-942717-31-7

1. Buy your breeding stock from reliable duck raisers. The Pateros duck (native duck) is good for egg production and the Peking duck is good both for meat and egg purposes. You can also raise Muscovy duck or Pato. Muscovy has low egg production but is more self sustaining than the Pateros and Peking ducks.

2. Build your duck house in a quite, cool place and near as possible to a stream or pond. Local materials like bamboo, nipa and cogon are cool and cheap.

3. Provide each duck with at least 34 square feet of floor space. The floor should be covered with either rice hulls, corn cobs, peanut hulls or similar materials to make it dry and clean; and to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

4. You can provide a swimming pond for the ducks if you wish. One of 10 feet wide and 20 feet long is adequate for 50 birds. However, a pond is not really necessary in duck raising. The ducks can lay just as many eggs without it.

5. Pateros ducks start laying when they are about 4-6 months old. Peking and Muscovy ducks start laying at about 6-7 months old. In breeding, you need male for every five female ducks. Select breeders that are healthy, vigorous and without defects.

6. Ducklings need to be brooded or warmed until they are a month old.

a. The temperature required for brooding is 95°F for the first week, 90°F for the second week, 85°F for the third week and 80°F for the last week.

b. The behavior of the ducklings is a good indicator whether brooding temperature is correct. The ducklings huddle close topether toward the source of heat when temperature is low; scattered or spread evenly when the temperature is correct; but planting and moving away from the source of heat when the temperature is too hot.

c. A good brooding area is at least 1/2 square foot per duckling during the first week. The area should be increased by about 1/2 square foot every week until the fourth week.

d. When your ducklings show signs of sickness, add three tablespoons of Nexal for every gallon of water for 2-3 days. Skip or withdraw after 3 days. Then continue for another 3 days. Terramycin poultry formula can also be used Follow the instructions on the package carefully.

e. In order to prevent Avian Pest Disease, immunize your ducks with Avian Pest Vaccine which can be obtained free from the Bureau of animal Industry (BAI).

f. Sex your ducklings. If you desire to fatten the extra males, then grow them separately from the females.

g. When ducklings are six weeks old, they can be transferred from the brooder to the growing house.

h. Transfer the layers to the laying house when they are four months old.

7. Feed your ducks the right kind of feed.

a. 1-day to 6-week-old ducklings should be fed with starter mash with 10-21 percent crude protein.

b. 6-week-old to 4 month old ducklings should be fed with growing mash with at least 16 percent crude protein.

c. 4-month-old ducks and above should be fed with laying ration with at least 16 percent crude protein.

d. Commercial feeds are good for your ducks. However, if you want to mix your own feed, here is a formula for a practical general purpose ration:

Ingredients:

First class rice bran (darak)- 55 kilograms
Ground corn or binlid – 20 kilograms
Shrimps or snails – 25 kilograms
Wood ash or ground charcoal – 1.5 kilograms
Ordinary table salt -250 grams
Ground limestone or shells -250 grams
Afsillin or Aurofac – 250 grams

This general purpose ration may be fed to your ducks of any age.

e. Also, feed plenty of chopped green leaves of either kangkong, comfrey, camote, ipil-ipil and legumes as additional feed. Give at least 10 grams of chopped green leaves per duck per day.

f. You can grow and feed ffesh water snails to your ducks. Giving one gallon of fresh snails a day to 24 duck layers will help increase egg production.

g. Provide your ducks plenty of clean fresh water all the time.

8. If you provide a swimming pond for your ducks, limit their playing in the water to 1-2 hours a day. Too much playing in the water wilire your ducks and make them eat more feeds.

9. Do not allow your ducks to get wet under the rain because they may get sick.

10. Pateros ducks should weigh about 21/2 kilograms at 6 months. They should lay about 250-280 eggs in one year. On the other hand, Peking should weigh about 3 1/24 kilograms at 6 months old and lay about 180-200 eggs in,a year.

11. You may start growing your replacement ducks when your layers are in their second year of laying. Dispose of your pool layers and retain the good ones.

12. Duck eggs and meat are as nutritious as chickens’. Eat plenty of duck eggs and meat, they are good for you and your family.

Sources: Harold Watson and Warlito Laquihon. Mindanao Baptist Mission.nternational Institute of Rural Reconstruction (IIRR) Silang 4118, Cavite, Philippines Tel. No. (0969) 94-51 Fax No. (632) 522-24-94 ; Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) Visayas Ave., Diliman Quezon City, Philippines ; Ford Foundation (FF) 6th Floor, Doarcisa Bldg. Paseo de Roxas, Makati Metro Manila, Philippines
ISBN: 0-942717-31-7 ; photo from http://www.factoryfarming.org.uk/ducks.html