Archive

Archive for March, 2007

Soap Making Technology

March 28th, 2007 arnx No comments
A. PREPARATION OF LAUNDRY SOAP

Materials/Ingredients (for 28 bars):

Coco oil – 8 kg
Caustic soda solution, 36oBe [30% solution] – 5 kg
Soda ash – 90 kg
Salt – 48 g
Sodium silicate – 400 g
CDEA [coco diethanolamide] – 40 mL
Citronella oil – 20 mL
Water – 6 L

Equipment/Tools:

Plastic pail – 16 L cap. [2]; 20 L cap. [1]
Hydrometer, 0-70oBe
Weighing scale – 10 kg
Wooden stirrer/manual or electric mixer
Moulder
Cutter
Spatula, stainless
Basin (large)
Graduated cylinder

Preparation of Materials:

Caustic soda solution, 36oBe (30% solution)
Dissolve 2 kg caustic soda in 4.6 liters water. Cool to room temperature, check the concentration with the hydrometer, adjust (if necessary) and filter if needed before using.

Additives:

Dissolve salt, soda ash and sodium silicate in 1.4 L of water.

Preparation of the Soap:

1. Measure or weigh carefully the required quantity of coco oil.
2. Weigh the lye or caustic soda solution required (5 kg) and add slowly to the oil, stirring continuously for about 30-45 minutes until it attains the condensed milk-like consistency.
3. Add the measured amounts of dissolved additives and CDEA (foam booster) with continuous stirring from 5-10 minutes more. Then add the essential oil with stirring. Stop stirring when the mixture attains a viscosity similar to condensed milk.
4. Pour the homogenous viscous soap mixture into the moulder, allow to set at room temperature for 12 hours or until soap solidifies.
5. Cut the soap into bars of suitable sizes with a string or wire attached to the wooden/metal cutter. Twenty-eight (28) bars will be produced. The soap is white or creamy white. Cut bar into 4 pieces and pack in a plastic bag.
6. Allow to age from 7 to 10 days to complete the saponification
reaction.

B. PREPARATION OF TOILET SOAP/BATH SOAP (OPAQUE)

Materials/Ingredients (for 14 bars, 135 g/bar):

Refined coconut oil – 4.5 kg
Caustic soda solution (32oBe) – 3.25 kg
EDTA (Ethylene diaminetetracetate) – 70 g
Citric acid – 70 g
Sodium chloride – 4.5 g
CDEA (Coco diethanolamide) – 50 g
Light mineral oil – 70 g
Scent to suit
Color (optional)

Equipment/Tools:

Pails – 16 L cap. (2); 20 L cap. (1)
Basin (large)
Hydrometer – 0 – 70oBaume
Weighing scales – 10 kg cap.; 500 g cap.
Mold and cutter
Wooden stirrer/manual or electric mixer
Spatula, stainless

Preparation of Materials:

1. Caustic soda solution, 32oBe
Dissolve 0.855 kg of caustic soda (NaOH) in 2.4 kg water. Cool to room temperature. Check the concentration with the hydrometer. Adjust if necessary and filter if needed before using.

2. Additives
Dissolve EDTA, citric acid and salt in 100 mL water. For color, make a 1% solution. Add color in oil.

Preparation of the Soap:

1. Weigh carefully the required quantity of coco oil. To make a colored soap, add about 10 mL of the 1% color in oil solution or the amount to suit the desired intensity of color.
2. Add the required amount of caustic soda with stirring until the condensed milk-like consistency is attained. This usually takes 45 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Add the dissolved additives and continue stirring for 5 minutes more.
4. Add the light mineral oil, CDEA and scent. Stir for another 5 minutes.
5. Pour the soap mixture into the moulder. Let it stand at room temperature for 12 hours or until soap solidifies.
6. Remove soap from the moulder and cut into desired size.
7. Stamp and pack. Allow to age for about 7 days to complete the saponification.

C. BATH SOAP (TRANSPARENT)

Materials:

Coconut oil – 100 gms
Stearic acid – 100 gms
Castor oil – 80 gms
Caustic soda solution (38oBe) – 160 gms
Glycerol – 85 gms
Alcohol – 100 gms
Sugar – 80 gms
Water – 80 gms
CDEA 25 gms
Perfume (Optional)

Preparation of 38oBe Caustic Soda:

Dissolve 1 kg caustic soda in 2 liters of waters. Cool to room temperature. Measure the concentration with a hydrometer. Adjust (if necessary) and filter if needed before using.

Procedure:

1. Weigh all the ingredients
2. Melt separately the stearic acid and coconut oil at 80oC.
3. Add castor oil first before adding lye into the charge oil
4. Mix caustic soda with alcohol; add slowly to fat charge with stirring. Temperature should not exceed 75oC.
5. In a separate container, dissolve sugar in water at 80oC (remove any froth)
6. Add to the soap mass, the glycerol, the water-sugar solution, and the CDEA stirring constantly.
7. Cover and allow to stand until temperature reaches 60oC, add perfume and color (if needed).
8. Transfer to mould or frame.

NOTE: Rapid cooling is essential for soap transparency.

D. BATH SOAP WITH HERBAL SOAP

Materials/Ingredients:

Refined coconut oil 4.5 kg
Caustic soda 3.25 kg
EDTA 70 g
Citric acid 70 g
CDEA 50 g
Light mineral oil 70 g
Sodium chloride 5 g
Scent
Herbal extract
Color [optional]

Equipment/Tools:

Plastic pail
Hydrometer – 0 – 70oBaume
Weighing scale
Cutter
Wooden stirrer/manual or electric mixer
Moulder
Stamper

Preparation of Materials:

1. Caustic soda, 32oBe
Dissolve 1 kg of caustic soda in 2.8 kg water. Cool to room temperature. Check the concentration with a hydrometer. Adjust (if necessary) and filter if needed before using.

2. Additives
Dissolve EDTA, citric acid and NaCl in 100 mL water. For color, make a 1% solution of color in oil.

3. Preparation of extract
Osterize or blend 200 grams of material in 200 mL water. Strain thru cheesecloth.

Source: ITDI, DOST, photo courtesy of www.pamperingu.com

Anti-aging Nutrients In Sweet Potato

March 20th, 2007 arnx No comments

The lowly ” Talbos ng Kamote” or Sweet Potato is a health vegetable rich in antioxidants and other nutrients useful in maintaining a healthy body.

A new study conducted by the Rural Development Administration (RDA) of South Korea shows that sweet potato contains antioxidants such as chlorogenic acid, isochlorogenic.

Antioxidants, known as the modern-day anti-aging nutrients, are phytochemicals or substances (mostly present in fruits and vegetables), which neutralize or counterbalance the free radicals that are generated by the body during normal metabolism.

Free radicals are the most vicious and toxic by-products of metabolism. When not neutralized, they can travel through the body cells, disrupting the structures of proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, and cause cell damages.

These damages are believed to contribute to aging and degenerative diseases such as cancer, heart disease, diabetes, stroke, cataract, and the like.

Sweet potato antioxidants are higher in the leaves than in the tops, but higher in the tops than in the roots and petioles.

Also, all parts of sweet potato, especially the leaves and tops, contain protein, lipids, carbohydrates, calcium, iron, phosphorus, and vitamin A and C.

These nutrients are favorably comparable with those of other vegetable nutrients when they are boiled or used in their dry form than when they are consumed raw.

PFN No. 6482 July-September 2004

Source: FFTC leaflet for agriculture. No. 2001-34. Food and Fertilizer Technology Center (FFTC), 14 Wen Chow St., Taipei, Taiwan, ROC. Cooperating agency for this topic: Rural Development Administration (RDA), Suwon, South Korea.

Photo courtesy of www.aloha.net, and www.bigdipperfarm.com

Gemstone Cutting, Grinding, and Polishing

March 10th, 2007 arnx No comments

Gemstones are natural or synthetic minerals with special physical properties that may be fashioned into objects for personal adornment and decorative purposes.

To cater to the increasing demand for gemstones, the Gemstone Cutting, Grinding and Polishing Processes are being utilized.

Materials:

Various types of gemstone such as Jade, Opal, Quartz, Chert petrified wood, Jasper and/or other semiprecious stones.

Consumable needed:

Diamond cutter blade
Chromite oxide
Dopping stick
Grinding wheel, 80/120 grits
Template
Shellac flakes/epoxy
Pencil
Alcohol lamp
Sand paper, 200/600 grits
Denatured alcohol
Polishing cloth/carpet
Tweezers

Equipment needed:

Gemstone Cutting Machine
Gemstone Grinding Machine
Gemstone Polishing Machine

Procedure:

1. Orientation/Examination of Samples – Carefully examine the raw stone to avoid cracks, fractures and cleavages to get the best part of the stone.

2. Slabbing – Cut the rough stone into 3-5 mm slices or 4-6 mm thick using the cutting equipment. This can be done in 5 minutes.

3. Templating – Outline the desired cabochon shapes on the slabs using a template and aluminum pencil. The outline serves as a guide for trimming and grinding.

4. Trimming -Remove the unnecessary part in the slabs following the outlined shapes.Maintain 1.5-2.5 mm space around the outline for grinding purposes. This can be done within 3 minutes.

5. Preforming – Do initial grinding by following the contour of the desired shape by using the grinding machine. The marked piece, held firmly in both hands, is applied to the wheel face at about the level of the axle and ground to about 1/32 of an inch of the template outline.

6. Dopping – This is done by attaching the flat side of the stone to a dipstick with a heatsealing wax mixture. Dopstick may be bought or improvised using a rod that is 18-21 cm long and 2 cm in diameter. The stone is heated and pressed against the waxed end of the dopstick.

7. Shaping (Grinding) – Final grinding is done in an 80-120 grits grinding wheel in order to attain the desired shape and size.

8. Sanding – Sanding is done to prepare the ground gemstone for polishing. Sand papers of grits of 220 and 600 are used in this process. Sanding may be done in 3 minutes.

9. Polishing – Rub the gemstone against a soft material such as felt, leather, cloth or carpet on which a watery polishing agent is applied to impart a glossy smooth surface.

10. Unmounting from Dopstick – Remove the polished gem from dopstick by picking it with a cutter or any pointed material.

Note:

All the above-mentioned processes except 1, 6 and 10 require water to avoid burns on the surfaces of the stone. In order to ensure cleanliness, workpiece should be washed before changing cutting media (diamond blade, grinding wheel, polishing compound, sandpapers), since contaminants from previous cutting media would leave deep marks/scratches.

Source: Metal Industry Research and Development Center, DOST; Photo courtesy of www.bellabeaddesign.com, www.gemsusa.com

Electroplating

March 10th, 2007 arnx No comments

This post details the procedure for the following:
1. COPPER PLATING ON LOW CARBON STEEL
2. NICKEL-CHROMIUM PLATING ON ALUMINUM AND ITS ALLOY
3. GOLD PLATING ON ZINC-BASED ALLOYS (INCLUDING DIE CASTINGS)
4. SILVER PLATING ON COPPER, BRASS AND OTHER COPPER-BASED ALLOYS
ELECTROPLATING is a process of coating an object, usually metallic,with one or more relatively thin, tightly adherent layers of some other metal by means of electrochemical process. Electrochemical process involves electrical and chemical energy.

Principles of Electroplating

In electroplating, the object to be plated is immersed in a solution containing dissolved salts of the metal to be deposited. The set up is made up of a cathode and an anode with the object to be plated usually the cathode connectedto the negative (-) terminal of a direct current source. To complete the electrical circuit, another metal is connected to the positive (+) terminal and both are immersed in the solution. This metal is made up of the same material as the metal to be deposited and is called the anode. When current is applied, the electrical energy carried is converted to chemical energy by decomposition, a reaction in which the elements are divided into positive and negative charged ions. The movement of positively charged ions towards the cathode surface results to metal deposition.

Preparation of the work surface

The most important step in the entire plating operation is the surface preparation of metals or the cleaning process. This is because the appearance and acceptance of the article depend primarily on a sound finish achieved with a clean and active substrate. Likewise, improper cleaning process leads to rejects and decreased profitability.

Before the desired coating can be applied to the component, the surface to be plated should be clean and free of all “foreign” matters like heavy scale of oxide films, rust, workshop soils & oils, grease, dirt, and any other material. All these should be removed to ensure strong adherence of electrodeposited metal to the piece. This is achieved through the following methods:

1. Descaling - this is done by polishing, tumbling and blasting with sand, grit or vapor. This is then followed by pickling process where the component is immersed in acid to remove rust, scale, tarnish, light oxides and dirt.

2. Polishing - this is done after the surface has been subjected to grinding or wire brushing. This method alters the surface of the metal through the use of a variety of abrasives: coarse, medium, fine and so on. This operation smoothens the surface of the metal.

3. Buffing – this method further smoothens the metal surface and improves its appearance by the application of very fine abrasives to produce different types of finishes (e. g., satin finish, brushed or butler finish, mirror brightness finish, etc.)

4. Alkaline Soak cleaning – the component is dipped in hot alkaline solution to remove oil and wax.

5. Electrocleaning – this process is performed on the metal surface prior to electroplating. It is more efficient than soak cleaning and considerably minimizes chemical attack on the metal surface. The component becomes the cathode (direct cleaning) or anode (reverse cleaning) or alternately the cathode and anode in an alkaline solution.

6. Ultrasoniccleaning- the use of high-frequency waves called ultrasonic waves enhance cleaning efficiency of components with complex shapes like jewelry, electronic and other precision parts.

EFFECTS OF IMPROPER CLEANING

1. Deposits on substrate poorly adhere
2. Non-uniform appearance of deposit
3. Pitting of deposit
4. Unplated areas
5. Poor corrosion resistance
6. Micro-roughness of deposit
7. Contaminated baths

EQUIPMENT & ACCESSORIES NEEDED

1. Rectifier
2. Plating Tank
3. Anode: e.g., Nickel, Copper, Stainless Steel, Silver
4. Heater
5. Filter
6. Air Blower/Agitator
7. Thermostat
8. Thermometer
9. Racks and Jigs
10. Copper Bus Bar
11. Bench Grinder
12. Wire Wheel Brush
13. Polishing Wheel
14. Buffing Wheel
15. Measuring Glassware (Beaker, Graduated Cylinder)

PLATING PROCESSES

A. COPPER PLATING ON LOW CARBON STEEL

MATERIALS AND SOLUTIONS NEEDED

I. Copper Cyanide (CuCN) Plating Solution

Copper Cyanide 30 g/l
Sodium Cyanide 48 g/l
Sodium Carbonate 15 g/l
Sodium Hydroxides 3.75 g/l
Rochelle Salt 30 g/l
Current Density 0.5 – 4 A/dm2
Temperature 24 – 66 oC
Voltage 6 V
pH 12 – 12.6
Dipping Time 30 sec. – 5 min.
Anode – Oxygen-free Copper

II. Acid Copper Plating Solution

Copper Sulfate 225 g/l
Sulfuric Acid 56 g/l
Current density 2 – 10 A/dm2
Temperature 21 – 48 oC (RT)
Voltage 6 V
Dipping Time 15 min.
Anode Phosphorized copper

III. Acid Dip Solution

Sulfuric acid 50 ml
Water 1 liter

SOLUTION PREPARATION:

COPPER CYANIDE PLATING SOLUTION

1.Fill 2/3 of the storage tank with demineralized water and dissolve the required amount of sodium cyanide (NaCN) with continuous stirring.
2. In a separate container, mix copper cyanide (CuCN) with water to form a thin slurry. Pour this mixture gradually into the storage tank.
3. Add the rest of the required materials after dissolving the copper cyanide.
4. Carbon treat the solution if necessary then filter into the plating tank. Dilute to volume with water.
5. Adjust to the required pH with sodium hydroxide (NaOH).
6. Analyze solution for free cyanide (CN).

ACID COPPER PLATING SOLUTION

1. Fill 2/3 of the storage tank with demineralized water, then heat to 60 C.
2. Dissolve copper sulfate (CuSO4•5H2O) with continuous stirring.
3. Treat bath with activated carbon. Stir the solution.
4. Agitate for at least one hour, then allow activated carbon to settle for eight hours. Filter into the plating tank.
5. Add sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and agitate through mixing and dilute to volume.
6. Add the necessary amount of brighteners.

ACID DIP SOLUTION

1. Pour the water in a clean container.
2. Gradually add the sulfuric acid to the container. Mix thoroughly.

CAUTION: To avoid accident always add ACID to WATER

PLATING PROCEDURE:

1. Degrease the low-carbon steel by dipping in alkaline solution for 5 min.
2. Electro-clean the steel by applying current of 8 Amp/dm for 30-60 sec.
3. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
4. Dip for 10-15 sec in of 50ml/l sulfuric acid solution.
5. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
6. Plate with copper in copper cyanide solution for 2-5 min. Using current density of 4.0 Amp/dm .
7. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
8. Dip for 5 sec. in 50 ml/l sulfuric acid solution.
9. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
10. Plate in acid copper at room temperature for 15 min. using current density of 4.0 Amp/dm .
11. Rinse with water and dry.

B. NICKEL-CHROMIUM PLATING ON ALUMINUM AND ITS ALLOY

MATERIALS AND SOLUTIONS NEEDED

I. Nickel Plating Solution

Nickel Sulfate 225 g/l
Nickel Chloride 30 g/l
Boric Acid 40 g/l
Brightener I (Vegastar I) 30 ml/l
Brightener II (VegastarII) 2 ml/l
Anti-pitting agent 0.5 – 1 ml/l
Current density 2 – 4 A/dm2
Temperature 45 – 70 oC
Voltage 6 – 12 V
pH 4 – 4.5
Dipping Time 15 min.
Anode Nickel

II. Chrome Plating Solution

Chromic Acid 250 – 300 g/l
Sulfuric Acid 2.5 – 3 g/l
CrO3 : H2SO4 100 : 1 ratio
Trivalent Chromium (Cr+3) 2 – 3 g/l
Non-mist pellets 0.5 g/l
Current density 11 – 23 g/l
Temperature 52 oC +/- 3oC
Voltage 6 – 12 V
Dipping Time 1 – 2 min.
Anode Lead (Pb) with 5-7% Tin or Antimony

III. Copper Cyanide Solution (see above)

SOLUTION PREPARATION:

NICKEL SOLUTION

1. Fill 2/3 of the storage tank with demineralized water and heat up to 65 C.
2. Add boric acid (H3BO3) in specified quantity and agitate to dissolve.
3. Add nickel sulfate (NiSO4), then the nickel chloride (NiCl2). Dissolve.
4.Treat with activated carbon (2-5 g/l) and agitate for about 2 hours.
5. Filter the solution into the plating tank.
6. Add the brighteners in specified quantities and adjust the volume of the solution with water.
7. Adjust the pH to working condition.
8. Perform weak electrolysis if necessary (1-2 A/dm2 for 20 min. or until completely covered with nickel, then reduce to 0.1-0.2 A/dm2).

CHROME SOLUTION

1. Fill tank with water to about 3/4 of the final volume.
2. Heat until temperature is about 50 oC.
3. Add chromic acid (CrO3) very slowly with continuous and vigorous stirring.
4. Add sulfuric acid in specified quantity.
5. Stir up the plating solution for about 2 to 3 hours for perfect dissolution.
6. Heat the solution until the temperature reaches 50 o C. (Do not exceed this temperature and maintain it for 2 hours then make an electrolysis without plating the article. This procedure is for obtaining a trivalent chromium ions (Cr+3) in the plating).

PLATING PROCEDURE:

1. Degrease the aluminum by dipping in hot alkaline solution for 5 seconds.
2. Rinse with water for 5-10 seconds.
3. Dip in 50% by volume nitric acid for 10 sec.
4. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
5. Dip in sodium zincate solution for 1-3 min. This solution contains 525 gms of caustic soda, 100 gms zinc oxide, 10 gms rochelle salt and 1 gm ferric chloride per liter solution. The solution should be used at room temperature and the articles should be kept moving during immersion.
6. Rinse with water thoroughly.
7. Strip the zincating by dipping in 50% by volume Nitric acid.
8. Rinse with water.
9. Repeat step no. 5
10. Rinse with water thoroughly.
11. Plate with copper in copper cyanide solution (see section 3).
12. Rinse with water.
13. Plate with nickel for 15 min. at 4.0 Amp/dm .
14. Rinse with water.
15. After nickel plating, the article can be plated with chromium at 10 Amp/dm for 1-2 min.
16. Wash the article in hot water and dry.

C. GOLD PLATING ON ZINC-BASED ALLOYS (INCLUDING DIE CASTINGS)

MATERIALS AND SOLUTIONS NEEDED

a. Strike Gold Solution

Potassium Gold Cyanide 1.25 – 2 g/l
Potassium Cyanide 7.5 g/l
Dipotassium Phosphate 15 g/l
Temperature 60 – 70oC
Current Density 1 – 4 A/dm2
Anode Stainless Steel/Gold/
Platinized titanium

b. Acid Gold Solution

Potassium Gold Cyanide 4 – 12 g/l
Citric Acid 10 g/l
Potassium Citrate 50 g/l
Hydrogen Sulfate 6 g/l
Nickel Citrate 60 g/l
pH 3 – 6
Current Density 10 A/dm2
Temperature room temperature
Anode Carbon and/or Platinized titanium

c. Acid Dip Solution

Sulfuric acid 65 ml
Water 3 liters

d. Cyanide Dip Solution

Sodium Cyanide 30 grams
Water 1 liter

e. Acid Copper Solution (see above).
f. Copper Cyanide Solution (see above).
g. Nickel Solution (see above).

SOLUTION PREPARATION

GOLD PLATING SOLUTION

1. Fill 2/3 of the storage tank with distilled water.
2. Dissolve the required amount of potassium cyanide.
3. Add the potassium gold cyanide in specified amount and stir to dissolve.
4. Add the rest of the required chemicals and dilute to volume with distilled water.

ACID DIP SOLUTION

1. Pour each 1 liter of water into three containers.
2. Measure 5, 10 and 50 ml of sulfuric acid. Then pour to the containers. Mix then set aside.

CAUTION: To avoid fatal accident, NEVER mix ACID &

CYANIDE SOLUTION

CYANIDE DIP SOLUTION

1. Place 1 liter of water in a container
2. Pour gradually 30 grams of sodium cyanide. Mix, then set aside.

STRIKE GOLD PLATING SOLUTION (see above)
COPPER CYANIDE SOLUTION (see above)
ACID COPPER SOLUTION (see above)
NICKEL SOLUTION (see above)

PLATING PROCEDURE:

1. In separate clean plating tanks, prepare the solutions of strike gold, acid gold, copper cyanide, acid copper and nickel copper.
2. Degrease the zinc-die cast by dipping in alkaline solution for 5 min.
3. Electroclean the zinc-die cast by applying current of 5 Amp/dm for 30-60 sec.
4. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
5. Dip in 5 ml/l Sulfuric acid solution for 30-60 sec.
6. Rinse with water thoroughly.
7. Immerse the zinc-die cast in copper cyanide solution with current on. Initially, use a current density of 2.5 Amp/dm for 2 min, then reduce the current density to 1.2 Amp/dm and continue to plate for 5 min.
8. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
9. Dip in 10 ml/l Sulfuric acid solution.
10. Rinse with water.
11. Plate in Acid Copper at room temperature for 15 min. using current density of 4.0 Amp/dm .
12. Rinse with water.
13. Dip in acid of 50 ml/l Sulfuric acid for 5 sec.
14. Plate in Nickel solution for 15 sec. using current density of 4.0 Amp/dm
15. Rinse with water
16. Dip in 30 g/l Cyanide dip solution
17. Rinse with water
18. Plate with strike gold solution
19. Plate with gold in Acid Gold solution.
20. Rinse with water and dry.

D. SILVER PLATING ON COPPER, BRASS AND OTHER COPPER-BASED ALLOYS

MATERIALS AND SOLUTIONS NEEDED:

a. 1st Strike Solution

Silver Cyanide 2 g/l
Copper Cyanide 10 g/l
Potassium Cyanide 60 g/l
Temperature 21 – 30 oC
Current density 1.6 – 2.5 A/dm2
Voltage 4 – 6 V

b. 2nd Strike Solution

Silver Cyanide 3 – 4.5 g/l
Potassium Cyanide 62 – 75 g/l
Temperature 21 – 30 oC
Current Density 1.6 – 2.5 A/dm2
Voltage 4 – 6 V

c. Silver Plating

Silver Cyanide 30 g/l
Potassium Cyanide 50 g/l
Potassium Carbonate 13 g/l
Temperature 21 – 27 oC
Current density 0.5 – 1.6 A/dm2

d. Acid Dip Solution (see above)
e. Cyanide Dip Solution(see above)

SOLUTION PREPARATION:

SILVER PLATING SOLUTION

1. Fill 2/3 of the storage tank with distilled water.
2. Dissolve the required amount of potassium cyanide.
3. Add and stir to dissolve the silver cyanide in specified quantities.
4. Add the rest of the required chemicals and dilute to volume with distilled water.

1ST AND SECOND STRIKE SOLUTION (see above)
ACID DIP SOLUTION (see above)
CYANIDE DIP SOLUTION (see above)

PLATING PROCEDURE:

1. Degrease the copper by dipping in alkaline solution for 5 min.
2. Electroclean the copper by applying current of 8 Amp/dm for 30-60 sec.
3. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
4. Acid Dip for 5 sec. in 50ml/l sulfuric acid.
5. Plate in Nickel solution for 15 sec. using current density of 4.0 Amp/dm .
6. Rinse with water thoroughly for 10 sec.
7. Dip in 30 g/l sodium cyanide solution.
8. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
9. Plate in 2nd Silver Strike solution for 8-12 sec. at room temperature at
2.0 Amp/dm .
10. Rinse with water for 5-10 sec.
11. Plate in Silver plating solution for 5-10 sec. with applied current of 0.5-
1.5 Amp/dm .
12. Rinse with water.
13. Apply the silver plated article with discoloration prevention solution.

Source: Metal Industry Research and Development Center, DOST; photo courtesy of www.ppc1904.com

Farming Ampalaya (Momordica Charantia L.)

March 7th, 2007 arnx No comments

Ampalaya, amargoso or bitter gourd (Momordica Charantia Linn) is one of the most important commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in the country today. It has both nutritive and medicinal use. The fruit and leaves of which are used as vegetable and the latter are further used as a laxative for new born babies while the stem and roots as antidotes for fever. They are rich in calcium, phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates and vitamin B. It is also known to cure diabetes, arthritis, rheumatism, asthma, warts, and ulcer.

The commercial cultivation of the crop is concentrated to Region II and IV. Generally two types are being grown the Sta. Rita type, which is long, dark green and less warty and the Pinakbet type which is short and warty and much bitter in flavor.

Varieties

Variety and Maturity[Days after planting (DAP)]

Sta. Rita strains – 70-75 days
Makiling – 65-70 days
Sta. Isabel – 70-75 days
Jade star (A, L, XL) – 60-70 days
Mayon – 65-70 days
Million Green – 65-75 days
Galaxy – 65-75 days

Climatic and Soil Requirement

Ampalaya thrives well in all types of climates but high yield can be obtained during the cooler months because of more flower setting and bigger fruits. It grows in low elevation area anytime of the year. The crops grow well in any types of soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5. Higher yield however is attained on sandy loam soil. Soil analysis is a must for commercial planting.

Land Preparation

A good land preparation is very important in ampalaya culture. The field should be well prepared, plowed and harrowed twice to remove weeds and other plant debris in the field. Furrows are then made 3 meter apart. Organic fertilizer is applied at the rate of 5 tons per hectare during land preparation or a week before planting.

Plastic Mulching

An improved technology in the Philippines for ampalaya production is the use of plastic mulch to cover the beds. Planting holes are bored into the plastic sheet base on the planting distance. It offers number of advantage, its control weeds, preserve soil moisture, prevent soil erosion and leaching of fertilizers and reflect light, serving as repellant to insect which hide under the leaves.

To use the plastic mulch, stretch it over the planting beds, with edges held down by thin bamboo slats, staple well into the soil every 20 cm. Punch holes at 50 cm between plants in the row and 3 meters between rows.

Planting

Ampalaya can be direct seeded or transplanted. Direct seeding is most common, a hectare of production area requires 2.5 to 3.0 kilograms of seeds, Seeds are soak in water overnight or wrap in cheesecloth to facilitate water absorption. Seeds are planted the following day or as the radicle break. Transplanting can also be done specially when the seeds are scarce and during off-season planting. Seeds are planted in small plastic bags (1 seed/bag with soil mixture of 1:1 garden soil and sand/compost/carbonized rice hull) and transplanted to the field when the vine starts to grow. Pre- germinated seeds result in good seedling and an even crop establishment.

Time of Planting

Early planting in some areas is usually done during the months of October to December and the late planting are during the month of January to February.

Rate of Planting

The rate and distance of planting use by most farmers is three meters between furrows and 0.5 meters between hills with 3 seeds line at 4 inches apart. Other recommended spacing are: 30 m x 30 m with 1 plant/hill and 2.0 m x 0.5 m with 2 plants/hill.

Trellising

Bitter gourd or ampalaya grows best with overhead (balag type) trellis about 6 ft high. A lining of bamboo poles with abaca twine as lateral supports is done three weeks after germination. Lateral support of bamboo poles are spaced three meters between furrows and two meters between hills and the side support is place after the bamboo poles are constructed. The horizontal support of abaca twine is place before the vine reaches the top with a 6-inch mesh.

Abaca twine is use as a lateral and horizontal support because it does not absorb too much heat however it is not reusable for the next cropping season.

For plantation, the use of big wooden posts (kakawate or ipil-ipil) are dug into the soil about 1.5 to 2 ft at the four corners of the field and the posts are interconnected with G.I. wire stronger enough as main frame. The side support is used to prevent breaking down of the trellis.

Vine Training and Pruning

Train the vines on the vertical trellis regularly by tying the vines to the trellis. Lateral shoot/vine may be pruned every 4-5 days, leaving only the main stem. Initial pruning should be done one month after planting or when lateral vines appeared. Remove all lateral vines from ground level up to the top of the trellis and all ineffective lateral vines above the trellis at 15 to 20 days interval.

Remove all female flowers below the overhead trellis. Allow branching and fruiting on the overhead trellis. Fruits may also be allowed to form just above the 10th node.

Water and Weeding Management

Ampalaya is a plant that requires an abundant supply of moisture for vegetative and reproductive development to maintain a good crop stand in the dry season. Furrow irrigation is done twice a week during vegetative stage and once a week during the reproductive stage or before each application of fertilizer. Weeding is done when need arises.

Fertilization

The use of organic fertilizer such as manure or compost about 5 to 10 tons per hectare with inorganic fertilizer is recommended. Apply basal fertilizer at about 25 grams/hill of complete fertilizer (14-14-14) or 5 bags per hectare. During dry season, sidedress 10-20 grams/hill of (urea 46-0-0) and muriate of potash (0-0-60) once a month. However during wet season, side dress 5-10 grams/hill of urea and muriate of potash every week.

Pests and Diseases Control

Powdery Mildew- It is cause by a fungus that appears as white powdery growth on leaves. Crown leaves are affected first and may wither and die. The fungus may be introduced on greenhouse grown plants or wind from areas infected with the diseases. Disease development is favor by high temperature.

Downy Mildew-A irregular shaped yellowish to brown spots appears on upper side of the leaves, usually at the center of plants. Under moist condition, a purplish mildew develops on the underside of the leaf spots. Leaves die as spots increase it size. Spread is rapid from the crown toward new growth. Moist condition favors the development of the disease.

Bacterial Wilt -The disease is characterized initially by wilting and drying of individual leaves, which also exhibit cucumber beetle injury. Later, leaves on one or more laterals or entire plants wilts. Wilted parts may appear to recover at night, but they wilt on successive sunny days and finally die.

Several kinds of leaf diseases attack the plant and can cause yield reduction. Most often, the old leaves are affected; spraying of Fungicide is a preventive measure. You can consult your local inputs dealer on how and what fungicide to use. However crop rotation, field sanitation, and the use of resistant varieties is also highly recommended.

Fruitfly- The fruitfly is one of the major insect pests of ampalaya. Adults lay it eggs on the young fruits. The eggs later hatch into small worms that starts feeding inside the fruits. Symptoms are deformed fruits, fruits with holes that turn orange or yellow prematurely. The insect can be control by removing all damage fruits from the field. Spray only after the removal of the damage fruits with insecticides recommended by your pesticide dealer. Wrapping young fruits with newspaper or plastic bags prevent the fruit fly from laying eggs on the fruits. Wrapping reduce the use of pesticides.

Thrips- it is a very small crawling insect on that stays on the lower side of the leaves. It is recommended to spray during nighttime 2 t0 3 consecutive nights if infestation is severed. This was found to be very effective time to spray. The pest hides during daytime and cannot be control using contact insecticides. Neighboring plantation should also be sprayed at the same time. Consult your input dealer on what pesticides to use in controlling this pest.

Harvesting

Harvest when the fruits are green. Harvesting starts 45 to 50 days after seedling. It can be done twice a week. Harvest early in the morning to protect harvested fruits against rain, sun, and mechanical damage. Sort fruits according to marketable standards, and remove damage fruits. Pack in plastic or bamboo crates line with newspaper or bamboo leaves. Fruits can be stored for 2-3 days under this condition.

Source : bpi.gov.ph; References

Ampalaya Growing Guide, Agriculture Monthly Magazine.? April 2001

Ampalaya Production Guide, Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forest and Natural Resources. Department of Science and Technology. Information Bulletin No. 156 / 2000

Estimated Cost and Return of Production of Fresh Vegetable for 2001. Bureau of Plant Industry. Crop Production division.

M.E.C. Reyes. B.H. Gildemacher and G.J Jansen. PROSEA Vegetables. Plant Resources of Southeast Asia. Siemonsma J.S. and Kasem Piluek (Editors) Bogor Indonesia. 1994. pp 206-210

TECSON, AMELITA B., D.C. Reyes and R.T. Donato.1994.The effect of Pruning on the Production of Marketable Fruits of Ampalaya and Upo.? The Philippine Journal of Plant Industry. Vol. 59., No. 3. Bureau of Plant Industry, Manila. pp 29-36